Rönesans dönemi Ruff Yaka’nın günümüz modasına yansımaları
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Date
2016
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Journal Title
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Publisher
İnönü Üniversitesi
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info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
Abstract
14. yy da başlayıp 16. yy’a kadar Batı ve Orta Avrupa’ya yayılan “yeniden
doğuş” olarak adlandırılan Rönesans Dönemi, moda alanında da bir doğuşa;
“ruff yaka” nın doğuşuna öncülük etmiştir. İlk dönemlerde ceketin veya
robanın boyun çevresini kirden korumak için küçük bir fırfır olarak ortaya
çıkan bu yaka 1590’larda kişinin omuz genişliğine erişmiş, nişasta ve tellerle
sertleştirilip desteklenerek oldukça görkemli bir yapıya kavuşmuştur. Ruff
yakalar ihtişamlı görünümleriyle gücü ve statüyü sembolize etmişler,
zamanla tarihsel bir giysi detayı olmaktan çıkıp Rönesans Avrupa’sının
kültürünü içinde barındıran, geçmişle bağlantı kuran bir göstergeye
dönüşmüşlerdir.
Bu özelliğiyle, tarihsel dönemlere gönderme yaparak geçmişe olan özlemi
vurgulayan Retro kavramı içerisinde ele alınan ruff yakalar, tasarımcıların
modern yorumlarıyla bugünün moda dünyasında adından söz ettirmeyi
başarmışlardır.
Bu çalışmada, Rönesans Dönemi’nin simgesi ruff yakaların, dönemin
estetik duygusuna bağlı gelişimine ve günümüz modasındaki yansımalarına
değinilmiştir. Bu yakaların 1980, 1990 ve 2000’li yıllarda kullanımları genel
olarak incelenirken özellikle 2010-2015 yıllarını kapsayan trendler ayrıntılı
olarak taranmıştır. Son beş yılda, ruff yakaları modernize ederek günümüz
modasıyla bütünleştiren dünyaca ünlü moda tasarımcıları Balanciaga,
Alexander Mc Queen, Giambattista Valli, Georges Hobeika, Chanel, Amato
by Furne One, Giles, Juliana Jabour ’ın koleksiyonları örneklerle irdelenerek
tarihsel esin kaynakları ile arasındaki bağlantılar saptanmaya çalışılmıştır.
Renaissance which is a period that started 14th century and spreaded middle and east Europe till 16th century and it was called as ‘rebirth’ lead to birth of ruff collar in fashion. This collar which arose as ruffle to protect jacket’s or yoke’s neck girth from dirth reached shoulder width and it supported by wires and starch, it gained a magnificient appereance in 1590. Ruff collars have represented power and statute with their gorgeous appearance. It has not been just a clothe touch anymore. It has turned into a symbol that included Renaissance’s Europe’s culture. Ruff collars, with this feature, are embraced in Retro concept which emphasizes nostalgia by refering to historical period, ruff collars managed to become popular with designer’s modern touch in today’s fashion world. In this research, development of ruff collar which was the symbol of Renaissance related to period’s sense of aesthetics and reflections of today’s fashion were mentioned. Usage of these collars ,in 1980,1990 and 2000, was examined in general. But trends that became popular between 2010-2015 was examined at large. Some designers’ collections like Balanciaga, Alexander Mc Queen, Giambattista Valli, Georges Hobeika, Chanel, Amato by Furne One, Giles, Juliana Jabour were studied with their samples. Relationship between today’s samples and historical source of inspiration were tried to determine. These designers modernise ruff collars by integrating them today’s fashion.
Renaissance which is a period that started 14th century and spreaded middle and east Europe till 16th century and it was called as ‘rebirth’ lead to birth of ruff collar in fashion. This collar which arose as ruffle to protect jacket’s or yoke’s neck girth from dirth reached shoulder width and it supported by wires and starch, it gained a magnificient appereance in 1590. Ruff collars have represented power and statute with their gorgeous appearance. It has not been just a clothe touch anymore. It has turned into a symbol that included Renaissance’s Europe’s culture. Ruff collars, with this feature, are embraced in Retro concept which emphasizes nostalgia by refering to historical period, ruff collars managed to become popular with designer’s modern touch in today’s fashion world. In this research, development of ruff collar which was the symbol of Renaissance related to period’s sense of aesthetics and reflections of today’s fashion were mentioned. Usage of these collars ,in 1980,1990 and 2000, was examined in general. But trends that became popular between 2010-2015 was examined at large. Some designers’ collections like Balanciaga, Alexander Mc Queen, Giambattista Valli, Georges Hobeika, Chanel, Amato by Furne One, Giles, Juliana Jabour were studied with their samples. Relationship between today’s samples and historical source of inspiration were tried to determine. These designers modernise ruff collars by integrating them today’s fashion.
Description
İnönü Üniversitesi Sanat ve Tasarım Dergisi. (2016). Cilt:6, Sayı:13, 235-250 ss.
Keywords
Rönesans Dönemi, I. Elizabeth Dönemi, Ruff yaka, Günümüz modası, Retro, Renaissance, I. Elizabeth Period, Ruff collars, Today’s fashion, Retro
Journal or Series
İnönü Üniversitesi Sanat ve Tasarım Dergisi
WoS Q Value
Scopus Q Value
Volume
6
Issue
13
Citation
Ok, M. (2016). Rönesans dönemi Ruff Yaka’nın günümüz modasına yansımaları. İnönü Üniversitesi Sanat ve Tasarım Dergisi. Cilt:6, Sayı:13, 235-250 ss.
